Ferrari, Giovanni Battista.
Hesperides sive de Malorum Aureorum cultura et usu Libri Quatuor.
Pl. 199. Limon Ligruriae Ceriescus
Rome, Hermanni Scheus, 1646.
Every winter there is a brief window for citrons. Their thick, meaty peel is the main attraction of the fruit; the juice and the pulp are optionals. This is one of the foods that I fear will disappear into the folds of time, as the rarity of the fruit has led to its disuse and vice versa. What does one even do with a citron? One serving suggestion from the 16th century proposes placing thin slices of it under grilled beef. Glorious. They can also be eaten on their own at the end of a meal, again in thin crosswise slices with a sprinkling of sugar.
I make candied citron peels annually as soon as they appear at the market so that I can extend the enjoyment of their unique flavor throughout the year. They make an unusual garnish, can be chopped and added to anything from salads to pasta to stuffings, or just eaten on buttered bread instead of jam.
Giovanna Garzoni (Italian, 1600 – 1670). Still Life with Bowl of Citrons, late 1640s. J. Paul Getty Museum.
I use the same slow candying method for all citrus peels. The recipe takes several days but only requires that you remember to simmer them once a day. I bring them to a simmer and set a timer while I am having breakfast, and that’s all there is to it. Then you have containers of joy that will bring any dish to another level.
Ingredients
Bergamot
1 litre water
550g sugar
1/4 cup corn syrup
Pinch salt
Directions
Cut the fruit in quarters.
Remove the inner fruit.
Cut the peels as you would like them.
Boil peels in 1 litre of simmering water 45 min until transparent.
Leave 4 hours in cold water, change a few times.
Pour the sugars and salt in the water and bring to a boil with the peels.
Simmer uncovered on low for 20 minutes.
When cooled, cover.
Repeat the process of simmering 20 min per day uncovered for another 4 days in syrup. Leave the cover off each time until it cools.
Remove the peels; set on wire rack to drain and then on parchment paper to dry for a day.
Pack into a sealed container and refrigerate. For longer storage, freeze.
They will not keep as long as commercially packaged dried fruit peels, but they will be notably more aromatic.
