Contemporary

Pasta and Perseverance - Part IV: Mischiglio

Pasta and Perseverance - Part IV: Mischiglio

Mischiglio is a multigrain pasta from the deep south region of Basilicata, part of the so-called cucina povera. Because of its association with poverty, it was cast off when economic conditions improved, as it was an unpleasant reminder of difficult times. As is true with many foodways of poor rural communities, this pasta is being reassessed as a tradition and symbol of resilience and resourcefulness.

Pasta and Perseverance - Part III: Struncatura

Pasta and Perseverance - Part III: Struncatura

The history of struncatura, a pasta from southern Calabria, is an intriguing rags to riches story. This is not just another story of la cucina povera but of a pasta that was for years sold under the table given the dubious ingredients and conditions under which it was prepared. What was it about this humble food of sustenance that lifted it from shame to fame? Pasta and Perseverance - Part III: struncatura

Sweet and sour wild boar stew

Sweet and sour wild boar stew

This traditional stew is from a recipe from 1899, but has antecedents in the Middle Ages. It’s a marriage of sweet, sour, salt, umami, and spice (though not ‘spicy’), with herbal and citrus aromatics. It takes us into the woods to the hunt; it recalls the sensuality of an Arabian banquet, and yet hails from the stalwart Roman table. Historical Italian cooking - food history for practitioners.